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Most Americans have heard of Mardi Gras in New Orleans. Most Europeans know about Carnevale in Venice, Italy. And just about everyone has heard of Carnaval do Rio de Janeiro — the biggest such celebration in the world with more than two million celebrants.
One carnival that flies under the radar of just about everyone — except Italians — is the Carnevale di Viareggio. Viareggio is a Tuscan seaside resort on the Mediterranean (population 62,000); it erupts into a fantastic display of gigantic floats parading through the city center five times between February and early March . Two of the parades are in the evening, with fireworks at the conclusion of the cavalcade for added excitement. The 2025 extravaganza kicked off on Sunday February 9, with parades also on Sunday February 16, Saturday February 22, Thursday February 27, Sunday March 2, and Tuesday March 4.
This celebration is more accessible, and human-dimensioned than its better-known counterparts, with fabulous floats, family-friendly festivities, fireworks, and of course Italian food consumed before, after, and during the parades, parties, and pageantry. (Although a small town, Viareggio boasts three Michelin-starred restaurants and many others worthy of a detour).
Symbolizing the Carnevale di Viareggio is Burlamacco, a clown figure clothed in red and white…
