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For an animal lover and erstwhile equestrian like me, the attraction was obvious — to be surrounded by 800 adorable jacks and jennies, enjoying great Emilian pasta and the affable company of the Borghi family of Emilia-Romagna, Italy. They own and operate Europe’s largest donkey farm, set in the low-slung green hills southwest of the city of Reggio-Emilia.
Turns out there is more to digest than excellent papardelle and sangiovese at Montebaducco (hotlink to www.montebaducco.it). It is a rural restaurant, a B & B, a petting zoo, a country outing, a didactic exercise, and a shop. It is also a full-scale farm operation, and the authenticity is part of its charm. So was my guide — Giuseppe Borghi, the gravelly-voiced patriarch, though one might also encounter his son Davide, the actual CEO, or Giuseppe Iannella, their head of research. The latter speak English fluently; the founder no.
Walking around the many! paddocks of the sprawling 43-hectate estate, I was besieged by donkeys of all sizes and a range of ages that crowded the fences and tried to sniff me out with their velvet noses. They relished a good muzzle rub and tried to kiss me with their mobile mouths. A few are shy or…
